Dashing Diner: Captain's Tavern Has Great Grub

By Dashing Diner - January 04, 2008

I take into account five criteria - atmosphere, service, presentation, taste and value - when reviewing restaurants.

I judge them on where they fits into each genre. We all eat at diners, pubs and fine dining restaurants with different expectations at each place. For example, I expect a diner to have inexpensive comfort food, served quickly. A noisy and bright room would be the norm. A pub would be a little darker, the menu a combination of comfort food and higher-priced "meat and potatoes." A good selection of beers on tap and by the bottle are a definite must. The room probably has a television or two for the sports enthusiasts, who would be rowdy in a good way. (GO Pats!)

Fine dining is where the expectations are the highest. I like a quiet dining room with enough lighting to see your food and companion, but not much more. Candles and flowers are always a nice touch. Where a $25 steak in a diner would cause concern, that isn't unexpected in this situation. It had better be cooked perfectly though. Presentation is important here: The plating should be pretty and show the flair and skill of the executive chef and staff.

With this in mind, I ventured into Captain's Tavern at 53 Park St. in Adams and was pleasantly surprised. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the staff friendly and engaged.

The former Miss Adams Diner has returned to its earlier seafood flavor. Operated by the Alves family for many years as Pier 53, its latest incarnation has the feel of both the "Captain" and the "Tavern." The condiment boxes were painted with a nautical theme, life preservers hung from the walls against a backdrop of handpainted murals of under-the-sea scenes. Beer on tap and a television at the bar completed the tavern.

The menu is extensive, serving everything from seafood to steak to burgers. Everything but the onion rings, french fries and desserts are homemade.

The Captain's Tavern

• 53 Park St., Adams; 413-743-5303 or www.thecaptainstavern.com
Hours: Sunday - Thursday 11:30 a.m. - 9 p.m.
              Friday and Saturday  11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.

The diner has been owned by restaurateur and innkeeper Jae Chung for 10 years. Several attempts to re-establish the historic dining car have met with failure, but Chung brought in Randall "Randy" Beaudoin, a chef at the former Captain's Table in Williamstown, to take the 70-year-old eatery on a new voyage.

The wine list included offerings of Jae's own wines, "Bottled & Cellared by Rutherford Wine Co., Napa, Calif."  I couldn't resist and opted for Jae's Cabernet Sauvignon for $5.95.

Since captain was in the name, I decided that seafood was in order and was pleased with the selection. Some of the appetizers included Homemade Fried Mozzerella Cheese served with marinara sauce ($6.95), Steamed Hard Shell
Clams ($8.95) and Crab Cakes ($9.95). I chose the Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels served in a white wine sauce ($6.95). The portions were generous, tasty and not too spicy.

For my entree, the Baked Stuffed Scrod ($13.95) caught my attention, but other items sounded just as delicious, among them  Fried Clam Strips ($10.95), Grilled Flat Iron Steak ($10.95), Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($14.95), and Shrinp Scampi ($15.95).

The entrees are served with a choice of soup or salad, rolls and butter, vegetable or potato. I enjoyed the salad and had the vegetable with my scrod. Every part of my meal provided generous portions. The Baked Stuffed Scrod had a nice stuffing that had tiny little shrimp in it. The dish was a little on the salty side, but not overpowering. It was hard to tell if it came from the scrod, stuffing or the side of fresh spinach with butter that came as my vegetable. Since the desserts were not homemade and I was already full, I opted out.

This hearty meal was enjoyable and I even took some home as leftovers. I would revisit The Captain's Tavern and plan to venture there for lunch.