Tuesday Night Taste Test:Milan @Fifty-Five Main
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| Veal Fiorentina at Milan@Fifty-Five Main |
The restaurant's decor is contemporary. A rounded, seven-stool honey-toned wooden bar tops a stainless steel base and the tables are cloaked with white linen tablecloths and decked with white linen napkins. The glassware sparkled with the reflection of the tiny, twinkling white lights that were draped throughout the dining area. Overhead lights were dimmed just enough to offer an atmosphere of intimacy but avoided that cloak-and-dagger, are-we-in-an-espionage-film darkness that is sometimes prevalent in fine dining establishments.
The wine list is extensive.
Owner and Chef Jack Carlow prepares a risotto of the day every day the restaurant is open.
Appetizers
<L2>Appetizers include mussels steamed with onions, tomatoes, white wine and cream served with grilled bread [$7], lump crab and artichoke button tower[$11] and steamed clams with red chiles and basil [$12].
I chose a grilled shrimp stuffed with horseradish and wrapped with prosciutto slices appetizer [$9]. The trio of shrimp were extremely tasty; the horseradish added zing and zest while the prosciutto added a spicy salty flavor.
Salads
The salad menu included oven-roasted beets layered with goat cheese on baby mixed greens with tarragon vinaigrette [$8], mixed greens salad with a house vinaigrette [$5], and spinach with gorgonzola, walnuts, and red onions served with a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette [$6].
My choice was a classic Caesar salad with house dressing [$7], which arrived laced with croutons and smothered with freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.
Pasta
The pasta menu includes tortellini filled with cheese and served with a tomato-basil cream sauce [$17], scallops, shrimp, calamari, mussels, clams,roasted peppers and tomatoes with a white wine sauce served over linguine [$22], hot Italian sausage, roasted garlic, spinach mushrooms, and Chianti on rigatoni [$18], and grilled chicken, leeks, tomato kalamata olives, mushrooms and rosemary with fusilli [$17].
A meat and fish menu includes Vitello Piccata, which is described as veal scallopine with lemon butter, vegetables and polenta [$20], grilled hanger steak with gorgonzola sauce served with asparagus and potato del giorno [$20], grilled filet mignon with mushrooms and potato del giorno [$23], rack of lamb, hardwood grilled with rosemary merlot demi glace [$26] and grilled salmon with sun-dried tomatoes, basil, and pine nuts served with vegetables and baked herbed polenta [$19].
Excellence
My choice was a Veal Fiorentina [$21], which was veal scallopine served with grilled eggplant,roasted red pepper,and fontina served with sauteed spinach.
The veal was incredibly tender. Carlow said that he uses the tenderloin to prepare the meal, something many restaurants do not do because of the expense. The eggplant was firm and very fresh-tasting. An accompanying side of summer squash topped with the sauteed spinach would truly please those who enjoy properly roasted vegetables. The fontina was delicious.<R3>
Dessert selections are limited to Key Lime mousse pie, tiramisu, and a chocolate polenta. All desserts are $7.
I chose the Key Lime pie, and was pleased to discover a sharp, tangy, lime flavor that was not disguised or shrouded in sugary sweet, lollipop-like tastes.
The restaurant was not crowded during the early evening but I was not the lone diner; Ron and Deb Gallagher of Williamstown were also eating at Milan @Fifty-Five Main. The couple offered high praise for their meal - Ron was especially pleased with the mussels - and Deb is a caterer with a very positive regional reputation. Carlow appeared quite delighted to chat with the couple about food and cooking.
The total cost for my meal, which included a diet cola, was $46 before the state meals tax was calculated.
<L4>Milan @Fifty-Five Main is entering its' sixth year and after one meal, it is easy to see -and taste - the secret to Carlow's success.
The restaurant is open Tues.-Sat. from 5 p.m. at 55 Main St..
Reservations may be made by calling 413-664-9955. The restaurant hosts a www.milan55main.com Internet web site.
Susan Bush may be reached via e-mail at suebush@iberkshires.com or at 413-663-3384 ext. 29.
