Berkshire Farm Sees New Aggie Commissioner Sworn In

By Tammy DanielsiBerkshires Staff
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Scott Soares
SHEFFIELD, Mass. — Western Mass. farmers say they have a friend in new Agricultural Commissioner Scott Soares.

Soares, who's been with the Department of Agricultural Resources since 1996, was acting commissioner for most of 2007, during which he was co-leader of the task force charged with resolving a sudden financial crisis in the state's dairy industry.

His leadership aided in the development of the landmark Dairy Farm Preservation Act, which was passed at record speed, to aid farmers caught between declining milk prices and rising feed and energy costs.

"I definitely think Scott is the right person for the job," said Joseph Nowak, chairman of the Adams Agricultural Commission on Friday. "He's very knowledgeable and he's got good ideas. He's a very intelligent person."

Soares was sworn into office Friday morning by Gov. Deval Patrick, with one of the state's largest dairy farms, Pine Island Farm, as the backdrop.

"With a national focus on the benefits of locally grown produce and natural foods, it's an exciting time for agriculture," Soares said in a statement.

According to the U.S. Department of Agricultural, Massachusetts farms have stopped disappearing — they've actually increased from 6,075 in 2002 to 7,691 farms in 2007. The market value of agricultural production also jumped during the same period, from $384 million to $490 million.

The Dartmouth native replaces Douglas W. Petersen, a 17-year state representative appointed to the post in November 2007. The selection of the Marblehead Democrat, an early supporter of Patrick, hadn't been welcomed by farming groups who felt his environmental record put him in opposition to their interests.

According to The Boston Globe, Petersen was ousted last week after losing a power struggle with Secretary of Energy and Environmental Affairs Ian Bowles. The governor reportedly declined to intervene. According to a press release posted on the governor's Web site, Petersen officially stepped down today.

"No one could be more deserving of this position than Scott Soares," Bowles, who appointed Soares, said in a statement. "Scott has a track record of service to Massachusetts farmers, and as commissioner, he will be in a position to provide leadership for years to come."

Soares has been assistant commissioner since November 2007 and will take his post at DAR on Monday, April 13. The ceremony took place early Friday morning at Pine Island Farm, owned by Louis Aragi since 1964. The dairy farm is good-sized, with 470 dry and milking cows and 500 young stock.

Aragi, reached later Friday, said the use of the farm was a last-minute decision: "No particular reason, they just like us." His son, also named Louis, who now operates the farm, is a good friend of Soares and offered Pine Island for the swearing-in. Media received e-mails late Thursday informing them of the event.

Despite the last-minute scheduling, there was a good crowd and good weather, Aragi said.

"In my opinion, he was the best man for the job," said Aragi. "He's very knowledgable and he's done much to help dairy farmers in this state."

In an interview with iBerkshires a few months ago, Soares spoke on the advances being made in technology that will help Bay State farmers of all stripes make their businesses more profitable and less labor intensive. There are ways, he said then, of using land management practices that will allow farming and conservation to exist side by side.

"I am confident that the state's agricultural industry will continue to flourish under Scott's leadership," said Patrick. "His experience and record of commitment to the commonwealth's farmers make him uniquely qualified for this post."

After the ceremony, Patrick and Soares met with area farmers and members of statewide and community agricultural organizations to discuss agricultural priorities, including state-sponsored programs to boost energy efficiency on farms, enhance agricultural waste management and composting, increase awareness about food safety and help farmers expand their businesses.

Soares graduated cum laude from the University of Massachusetts at Dartmouth with a double major in biology and marine biology, following seven years of active and reserve service in the Army.

He serves on the National Association of State Aquaculture Coordinators and the board of directors of Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom. He was honored in 1999 with a Citation for Outstanding Performance by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, and last month received the 2009 Government Leadership Award from The Cape Cod Cranberry Growers Association, which represents 334 growers across the state.

"Farm Bureau members from across Massachusetts trust and respect Scott Soares, and we look forward to working with him," said Alex Dowse, president of the Massachusetts Farm Bureau Federation, which represents 6,300 agricultural members, in a statement. "He has proven his abilities as an advocate for Massachusetts agriculture."
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Texas-Style Barbecue Opens for Lunch, Takeout in Downtown Pittsfield

By Breanna SteeleiBerkshires Staff

PITTSFIELD, Mass. — FireKing BBQ is making it easier to find its smoked ribs — they're in the Clocktower Building in downtown Pittsfield.

Owner Ethan Sumner has been operating as a catering service for more than a decade, with a mobile smoker for his award-winning barbecue.

"We specialize in low and slow cooking as well as grilling over charcoal and hardwoods," he said. "We love using cherry wood, apple wood, and a little kiss of hickory wood in all of our cooking. Most of our cooking, I should say. And we don't use any propane. I'm a purist in that sense. I love cooking over open flame and hot coals."

He works alongside Robear Robespierre, who helps with Sumner's sales and distribution.

Sumner said he spends hours cooking his meat, like his baby back ribs that won him first place in the 2019 Grillsdale competition in New York State. It takes him about six hours, two of them smoking at 250 degrees, to cook the ribs.

He said he wanted a space to be able to keep up with demand. Business dropped off every winter because people think of barbecue as outdoor food, and while he will cook outside even in negative temperatures, an indoor space lets him serve year-round, including football season and the Super Bowl.

He is now located at 75 South Church St. and he is no stranger to the building. Sumner had run the publication Berkshire's Best: Buys, Business, and Beyond out of the building so he knew its possibilities.

"It's funny how I've come full circle here back into the building. So I've always kind of seen this space. But I was never into culinary then. I was into publishing. So this is 13 years in the making, and I had my paper for 13 years, which again, is coincidental," he said. "So I just really like this space. It's modern. It's nice. It's clean, and that's how my food is. It's clean. It's fresh, and it's local, just like me." 

Sumner is originally from New York City and made his way to Great Barrington with his family. One of the inspirations behind his business was his father, who loved to grill outside.

"Even when we lived in New York City, he would go on the terrace of our 36-story apartment building on the third floor there was a terrace, and he would always cook on a Weber charcoal grill with charcoal, and I always was fascinated by that. And he always loved cooking outside, and he loved cooking over charcoal. And he would always make this mustard and tea leaf steak," he said. "That was a standout. It was a family favorite of ours and I could always taste the difference between something that was cooked [with charcoal]. Even when I was 7 years old I could, I always craved that certain taste that you could only get from charcoal." 

He wants customers to know he cares about his food and its quality, making sure he gets the best ingredients for his dishes.

"I want them to know that. I'm a barbecue guy, but I also offer so much more. I consider myself somebody who loves cooking over open flame, smoking meats, but I also love using fresh ingredients to create deli sandwiches and fresh salads," Sumner said. "So I want people to associate FireKing with quality. I also want to point out that I get a lot of my meat from Mazzeo's meat market. So I don't sacrifice quality, which I think is half the battle in doing what I do is getting quality meats and produce."

He hopes customer will find the eatery a comfortable atmosphere to enjoy their lunch and hangout, or grab a sandwich and go. 

"They could grab a pulled pork sandwich in about a minute and a half flat and be out of here if they want to. So there's no pressure," he said. "I love the community. I love talking to people here. Everyone in this community has been super kind and gracious, and I appreciate them. And I want to give back what they've given me."

He also plans to have DoorDash and barbecue pickup packages for families, and to have vacuum-sealed, pre-cooked smoked ribs with reheating instructions, also available for local pickup.

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