Sean MacDonald and Amy Nuciforo MacDonald hiked nearly 1,700 miles this spring and summer, from Georgia to New Hampshire, through rain, wind and sunshine, scaling mountains with vistas so stunning it pained them to move on, and seemingly endless, feet-torturing, pointless ups and downs.
They met a slew of colorful characters with nicknames such as Renegade, LaTripper, Talks-a-lot, Baltimore Jack and Sink, all living up to their names in one way or another. They met garrulous, welcoming townsfolk, and others who scorned them just for being hikers. They walked all of these miles both hating and loving every minute of the journey, relishing the scenery, putting one sore foot in front of the other and hoping they would reach a good source of water at day's end.
But it came to an end all too soon, on 9/11/02, with one misstep in the rugged high country of New Hampshire's White Mountains.
Sean & Amy did not fulfill their goal of hiking the entire Appalachian Trail in one trek, ending about 300 miles short after Sean missed a step, slipped, tried to catch his fall and broke his hand. Their adventure was over, with the end almost in sight.
But they both had an experience they will always remember, a journey they are still coming to terms with more than two months after they stepped off the trail. It was also a journey they shared with iBerkshires.com readers, through a series of journal entries and photo essays entitled "Sean & Amy's Appalachian Adventure."
Online readers - friends and family as well as fellow hikers and others - rooted them on, openly wishing they too were on the trail or suggesting that the couple was a little crazy for trying it, cringing at tick encounters, laughing at the more colorful trail denizens and getting downright angry when a restaurant owner sneered "we don't serve your kind here."
Both the actual and the virtual journey ended on the New Hampshire slope. They visited iBerkshires.com recently, where they were peppered with questions about the trip. Will they finish? Yes, it's more than likely, although they'll probably do it in several hiking jaunts rather than in one fell swoop.
What are they up to now? They're adjusting to life in Berkshire County. The couple has lived in Nashville for the past several years, immersed in the music business as bluegrass musicians. When they decided it was time for a change, they headed for Berkshire County and Pittsfield, where Amy grew up. The Appalachian Trail journey served as a transition to their new life. Sean's hand is healing, and the flexibility is coming back slowly.
What was the best part of this adventure?
Sean: For me it was meeting the people and just being outdoors every day. I've been hiking before but I'd never done anything like that, day after day, being out there
What was the worst part?
Sean: The heat and the lack of water were the worst part. There were times when there was just no water. I definitely appreciate nature and the outdoors and natural resources more. You really appreciate how precious water is. At the beginning it was tough, physically, but after about 500 or 600 miles, my feet just didn't hurt anymore.
Amy: I liked the trail a lot, but it definitely seems like it's being overrun
Regrets?
Amy: I don't think I have any regrets. I knew that the only way we weren't going to finish was sickness or injury. I feel really good about the way we did this.
Sean: I just feel disappointed that we didn't finish. I guess I feel more disappointed because it was my injury that caused it. To tell you the truth, when [the broken hand] first happened, I was disappointed but there was also a kind of relief. I thought 'I don't have to hike anymore.' Now, I just feel disappointed. Maybe that will change as time goes by.
I feel good about the way we did everything. We could have hiked faster but what's the point of doing it in three months? Just do it up and do it up right.
What surprised you the most? What did you not expect?
Sean: The number of people on the trail. I knew there were a lot of people out there, but I just didn't expect that many people. I expected more serious (hikers); there were a lot of partiers out there. A lot of kids in the 18-25 year old group.
Amy: I guess I was surprised that you really don't need all that much to survive. We really got it down to the bare necessities and sometimes that was kind of liberating.
What would you warn people about?
Sean: You'd better be prepared for a lot of guys who are 18-25 years old, and you've just got to deal with them. It can be pretty funny sometimes, but it can also be too much. You also have to deal with snoring (from fellow hikers in shelters).
Amy: There are a lot of people on the trail who think of themselves as hiking purists. Who if you aren't hiking the way they want you to hike, will look down on you.
Sean: They would write things (in shelter guest books) like "What are you doing out here? Go home." A saying on the trail you hear all the time is "Hike your own hike," and that's really the way to do it. Where is it written you have to hike the AT a certain way or it's not legitimate? Another thing to look out for is Boy Scouts. Too many of them, big groups.
Who were some of the most colorful characters you met?
Amy: We met so many people. There was Sink, we called him that because he brought everything but the kitchen sink. He wanted to be a minister, but he was all twisted about it.
Sean: Renegade was a pretty crazy boy too. Crazy southern guy; a wicked drinker. Also, Baltimore Jack, Southie, Lightbearer.
Did you meet people you will stay in touch with?
Amy: We probably will. I've already been emailing with a few already.
Best view?
Amy: I think when we got above tree line in New Hampshire the first time. At Mt. Moosilake
Best camping spot?
Sean: We camped at some pretty cool places. My favorite place that we stayed at was Kincora, in Tennesee.
<>Most welcoming town (or place)?
Amy: Kent Connecticut was great. We expected it to be really stuffy but it was nice.
Least welcoming place?
Sean: Danny's Pizza, far and away (where the couple was not allowed to eat inside the restaurant, prompting a backlash from fellow hikers, friends and iBerkshires readers)
Most challenging section?
Sean: Definitely, the White Mountains (New Hampshire)
Favorite trail food?
Sean: Far and away it's cheese on a bagel with Lays Potato chips. And Kool Aide lemonade.
Amy: my favorite trail food was the Lipton Asian noodles. I still like it.
When you told people (friends, family) you were doing this, what was the most common reaction?
Amy: I think most people were surprised, thinking 'wow, I could do that.' Almost surprised and excited, but with a sense that they should do something like this too. Most people encouraged us.
Sean: A lot of people asked 'What about your job?' or they would say, I'd like to do that, but I have to work. Well, yes you can do it. If you want to do it, you can do it.
What were you thinking about as you walked all those miles?
Amy: I think most of the time I was thinking about what I was going to do when I got off the trail, wondering if somehow I was going to have a revelation. Which didn't happen.
Sean: I think most of the time I was thinking, basically, "this sucks."
Editors noteAs the editor for Sean & Amy's Appalachian Adventure, I often felt like I had a stake in their journey.
Each week, we received a small envelope, containing handwritten journal entries and a roll of film. One of our staffers would type of the journal entries (Sean & Amy took turns writing the journal; our typists definitely were not happy with Sean's handwriting), and someone else would get the photos developed.
When everything was set, I would proof the copy, place the photos in a slideshow and post the entry. The last job was to approximate where they were on the trail and then place a small dot on a map so readers could track their progress.
The popularity of Sean & Amy's Appalachian Adventure amazed me. Thousands of readers visited the page. Some left comments, including friends and family, fellow hikers and complete strangers. It's still online (http://www.iberkshires.com/appadv) and continues to draw readers.
Personally, I looked forward to the journal updates, as I know many people in our office did. Although I'd only met Sean & Amy once before they set off, I soon felt like I knew them well. I remember cracking up when I read their first entry, when they reported days of cold weather and pouring rain. Frankly, I didn't think the feature would last long. But it did. My job was easy. Both are good writers with a sense of humor and an eye for detail. The photographs, taken with a small film camera, were outstanding.
Sean & Amy's Appalachian Adventure was partly a "reality" feature and partly a vicarious pleasure for readers (the success of the page prompted our "SteepleCats Journal" minor league baseball feature). I think it was simply good reading and a lot of fun. - Anthony Fyden, editor, iBerkshires.com
If you would like to contribute information on this article, contact us at info@iberkshires.com.
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Berkshire Food Project Closed for Power Issues
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The project does have some sandwiches and frozen meals that will be distributed at the entry.
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